Sunday, January 19, 2014

Lincoln (Manhattan) 01/2014

We were going to see Macbeth so it suited us to go to this upscale Italian restaurant only a couple of doors from the theatre. It is renowned for having some of the best food and best views of any New York restaurant and it did not disappoint. Window seats look over a huge bronze

parked in the middle of a large pool in an open courtyard. Tables are small and bare 

with comfortable seating on chairs that swivel making it easy to sit.

Service is efficient, informed and unobtrusive.
Basically there are two menus in easily understood Italian, a five course 'menu degustazione Emilia-Romagna', ($75) which we had, and a fairly standard Italian a la carte menu which includes Antipasti, Primi including several pastas, Piccolo Piatti, Pesce and Carne. The most expensive dish was $37.
Our first course, Terrina Di Trota, Citrus cured sea trout, anchovy, apple caper looked beautiful.
The flavour of the anchovy was mild but distinctive. The trout was held together by what felt like thin slices of butter, not the best sensation in the mouth.
This was followed by 'Lincoln Mortadella E Prosciutto Di Parma', Cassoncini, Quince Mostarda. The name here is slightly larger than the dish but it was absolutely superb, if only it was it was always as good as this.
The third dish,Tortellini in Brodo, Braised veal breast, also appears on the main menu as an entree, ($27). No doubt a lot more substantial than the small serve with which we presented. Taste wise it was another outstanding dish.
Bolito Misto, Cotechino, Chicken Leg Presee, American Wagyu Beef Tongue, Lentils, Black Truffles was a substantial and filling dish characterized by a range of appealing textures in a satisfying sauce.
The palate cleansing Sorbeto Di Cotogno 
was a nice preamble to the dessert (Zuccotto) Black and White Genovese. Chocolate Mousse, Mint Stracchiatella Gelato, which was as rich and delicious as it looked. 

Coffee was served with a little dish of sweets; nougat, dusted chocolate praline and caramel.
We also took the matched wines. The first was a fairly mundane Vini Ariola 'Marcello' Lambrusco dele Emilia Secco. This was followed by a Ronco du Tassi 'Fasaroin' 2012 which was also very ordinary. The third wine was fuller and much more to my taste; Marisa Cuomo Furore Rosso, Costa d'Amalfi 2010
The last wine, served with the dessert was extraordinary. We were both delighted with it's light fruit and chocolate tones, not excessively sweet it is a wine I will certainly try to get at home.
If Italian food can be described as haute cuisine this meal fits the bill. As well as being tasty and attractive and very delicately prepared it was inventive and displayed cooking at its best.
Score: 16/20 

A few dark views - looking toward the Lincoln Centre
 Outside looking in to the restaurant

1 comment:

John Salisbury said...

Elliot and Sandra, please try Modern restaurant whilst in New York. Would be interested in your opinion.Wendy and I had lunch there last September.
Best regards John