Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Kin (Nth Carlton)

This was an Italian wine tasting night run by the Medical Wine Society and began with a Venetian dry but fruity bubbly- Rizzardi Proseco. Each dish was serveed with a bracket of two masked wines
Kin501 is a restaurant that I find it not possible to categorize. It has an uninformative web page, useful to reserve a table. They use organic and chemical free ingredients where possible, they use first, cold pressed olive oil, non hydrogenated fats and are under the delusion that their sea derived salt contains no Sodium Chloride. The chef was reported by some reviewer as cooking ‘what my mother cooked’ it has Italian origins and this is apparent from the menu which calls small dishes Assagi and are definitely Italian but as for the rest – well this is what we tried after an offering from the chef of a tasty ?cauliflower paste on a dry thin slice of bread:
Three crumbed mouthfuls, one a gratinated mussel with light chili flavouring, cauliflower dumpling, deep fried, and one a small pipe of risotto called suppli rustici none of which I would cross the road for. Two whites- a n aromatic 05 Angelo Negro Rodero (Piedmont) was preferred to the Venetian Tamellini Soave which had an slightly bitter finish.This was followed by another set of small serves – pan fried calamari over rocket with house roasted chilli aioli and crudo of Petuna Ocean trout with Asian style dressing and wasabi mousse. A Vialone nano risotto followed with artichoke and peas served very al dente. Two Barbera's an 04 Dunn's Creek (Mornington Peninsula) and a Elio Atare D'Alba 05 (Piedmonte) were beautiful full bodied rich reds with good tannins and long finishes and then an organic cavatelli with slow cooked meat ragu, a pasta in meat sauce! I found the Heathcote 06 Vinea Marson Sangiovese more to my taste than the tuscan 04 Isole e Olena Classico Chianti, and got them mixed up tooPan seared kingfish on wilted endive had been cooked too long and had become dry and char grilled black Angus eye fillet with truffle over mashed potato was very nice but not special at all and the truffles added nothing to the dish. Strangely neither the double decanted 97 'Moccagatta' Barbaresco, which was open for 12 hours, nor the 04 Marchese de Gresy Niebiolo left much impression on meThe finale was a ricotta canoli with pistachio and a Kin tartuffo which my sweet toothed partner assured me was the best dish of the night. Whilst I did enjoy the sweet Castellare di Castellini Vin Santo '00 (Tuscany) I definitely prefer a sauterne


They are noted for having lotsof interesting specials and I believe all that we had, except the wines, is generally available.
Moderately expensive, n entree , main, side dish and a couple of wines ill run out at about $80.
Score: 13.5/20

Sunday, August 24, 2008

CHATTER 2

Some of Melbournes very best restaurants were represented at the Age and Emirates sponsored Taste of Melbourne at the Exhibition Building 21 to 24 August.
For whatever reason they chose to sell $2 coupons called Crowns which had to be used instead of money leaving many people holding unredeemable bits of paper at the end of their visit! Most offerings were entree size or smaller costing $8 to $12. Not particularly unreasonable if you are sitting in a nice restaurant but this was effectively 'take away' with almost no where to sitand some of the dishes were tiny. Since it also cost $25 to get in it produced an experience which I am unlikely to want to repeat. Of course not everything cost. there were tastes of fine cheeses from Enoteca Silena, Greg Malouf's spices Chapman Hill olive oils and moreWe had Grossi Florentino's Porchini mushroom and sage risotto, excellent, Longrain's Yellow chicken curry with cucumber relish, 312's roast quail in vine leaf, cracked wheat, almond and poached lemon, I could have done with more of that, and their apple confit, burnt butter ice cream, salted caramel, Circa the Prince's slow cooked sher Wagyu meat pie, truffled coleslaw, licorice spiced pumpkin, (Very good) Stokehouses blue swimmer crab chowder, Verge's slow cooked pork belly 'nan ban zuke' shitake and seaweed, and Fifteens' signature rotolo with baby spinach, baked ricotta,majoram, mushroom and sage butter, one of the best things served as also was their olive oil chocolate mousse with candied pistachios and grappa marinated strawberries.
Almost every dish was very good to excellent but long queues, large crowds - some dishes ran out mid afternoon, made our best restaurants perform like a Hawkers market. Not the best way to showcase excellence.
A programme of talks by leading chefs was booked out very quickly
With a few glasses of wine this added up to a couple of hundred dollars for the afternoon. Other restaurants represented included Nobu, The Press Club, Interlude, Stokehouse, Botanical and The Court House.
Vue, Ezards, Attica, Matteo's and Tempura Hajime were some restaurants that were not represented. For those who may want to go to Tempura H. be aware they are closing at the end of the year!

After the Tears, Vodka Bar (Elsternwick)

Sister to Vodka Borscht and Tears in Chapel St. this restaurant has taken over from the former Sinatra's adjacent to the Classic Cinema. The food is the same as VB and T and so are the large range of vodkas'. Quite cheap, specially if you like borscht ($9.50). There are a range of soups and I found the Russian borscht with smoked bacon extremely satisfying and filling. Apart from the beetroot, cabbage and smoked bacon it had fruit, dill and sour cream and was served with a basket of rye bread. They have a vegetarian version as well as barley and chicken soup which suffers from having been frozen and thawed leaving the pieces of potato in it with a displeasing textureand so on.
Pirogi are another prominent feature on the menu either as entree - four ($13.50) or main, six ($19.50) meat or potato filled they came fairly dry and failed to excite. Veal goulash, wrapped in a large potato cake, had plenty of sauce and good taste - a very pleasing winter dish. ($21.50).Crockery is hand painted Polish peasant style and goes perfectly with the bare wooden tables. Desserts are solid, domestic style serves.
The place looks like it has been decorated out of a garage sale at a railway yard. The massive lights are quite extraordinary,


Score 13.25/20

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

CHATTER

A new restaurant serving the most unbelievable food ptrsented by a superb team at very teasonable prices. No such luck.
This is a place where you, and I, can make comments or talk about anything to do with food or wine, reviews or restaurants. Recommendations or gongs criticisms or accolades or whatever.

Heres an inexpensive gourmet pizza joint highly recommended by my friends.
Lucky Coq
179 Chapel St
Windsor
Anyone been there?

Cerone;s (Malvern)

Cerone’s, the eponymous café/bistro at 111 Glenferrie Rd, around the corner from Wattletree Rd, has a menu offering a good range of Italian style dishes as well as breakfast until noon, lunch specials for $15, a main and a glass of house wine, and a series of salads gourmet salads ($9.50 – $16.50) including Tandoori, Caesar, Greek, Thai and Garden salad until 5.00 pm.
While examining the menu outside the front door a young waiter came out to invite us to come in and a moment later Tony Cerone himself, something of a character, came out and enthusiastically offered us four things – great food, great atmosphere, great service and great prices. An offer too good to refuse.
The long room becomes darker as you progress toward the back. It looks like a tired café. This becomes even more obvious as you approach the toilets which are also used for storing some odds and ends. On a more salubrious subject the cutlery is solid good quality, the crockery heavy and serviceable We started with the giant ravioli filled with crab and prawn in a sauce with field mushrooms, according to the menu, which looked more like champignons. Five good size ravioli tasted very home made with a good flavour from the crab but could have had more sauceand the scattering of rocket did nothing for the dish. The scallopini on a bed of Rosemary potatoes had been beaten very thin and were a bit past ‘milk fed’ but, they were tender.Served on a cold plate they were in an excellent creamy sauce making it a very good, although cool, meal. We opted for a glass of cab/sav, $9, because the Pepper Jack had been open since the day before. The glass of wine was brought to the table already poured so we really have no idea what it was.
Other offerings include a range of pasta dishe $15.50- $19.50) s, risottos’ ($17.50-$19.50) and parmigianas’. Mains max out at $21.50. There is also a kids menu Mr. Cerone delivered to some extent on the food but the atmosphere, not improved by a background of casual music, the service and the price were very ordinary.
Entertainment book owners will enjoy a discount if they bring the appropriate coupon. All in all not a bad place for a casual domestic style bistro meal.
Score: 13.25/20

Friday, August 15, 2008

The Swiss Club

It’s a rare experience to go out for a casual meal and have a thoroughly delightful evening so I’m glad to be able to report that is just what happened to me at the Swiss Club at 89 Flinders Lane last night.
As I climbed the tired carpeted stairs to this 1st floor restaurant I had no great expectations.
The restaurant is in a long wide room decorated with lots of symbols of its Swiss background – cowbells and so forth, with a background Swiss music. I felt like yodeling!
They have banquettes that would seat about 8 and smaller cloth covered tables further into the room. It has a sort of chalet ski clubby atmosphere.The menu is very Austrian/Swiss/German oriented with a few specials on a small blackboard. The entrees are more eclectic including snails, scallops, prawns in a light mango sauce with rice as well as fleishkase – meatloaf, wurstsalat – sausage salad, Swiss Caesar salad with air dried beef, bundnerteller – air dried beef, a variety of meats with rosti and quite a few more. We chose scallops in lemon butter sauce. Lightly cooked and simply presented they were very good, A dozen snails in a garlic curry sauce which were also accompanied by a small tower of rice were a pleasure. Only slightly chewy the sauce matched them beautifully. There are about 20 main courses available as well as having entrees as mains. They include a variety of steaks, chicken, duck and more typical Swiss fare such as pork schnitzel emmenthal, smoked lamb cutlets in honey sauce, venison with spatzli and red cabbage and calves liver and bacon in Madeira sauce and last thing on the menu - fondue, minimum two people $19.90 / head. I know no where else in Melbourne with fondue on the menu. Meat fondue is too dangerous for occupation health and safety reasons BUT cheese fondue is another matter and what a great dish it is. First a large bowl of pre cut bread arrives, then a burner to keep the cheese hot and finally a large bowl of hot melted cheese which had some white wine to thin it and give it better taste. Easily big enough to serve three or four, it’s a meal to bring back memories of Switzerland. I also ordered a beer roasted eisbein – a pork hock with spatzli and red cabbage. This classical dish is a particular favourite of mine. The hock could have been slow cooked for longer to make it more tender but it was quite well done, the red cabbage was a little dry but the spatzli was perfect. A huge bowl of crunchy chips (Patroni potatoes), also went well when dipped in the hot cheese. We finished the meal with apple strudel and a pear tart both served with cream, ice cream and a little cut fruit.
The girls serving did not strike me as very professional but they were very obliging, friendly and helpful. Wines are inexpensive by the glass or the bottle and there is a range of very reasonably priced beers. We had a very pleasant Broken Gate 2005 Shiraz. So what made it such an enjoyable night? The answer lies in the Chef/Host/Owner Roger Moullet. About 9.30 he began to circulate around the room chatting to diners at all the tables. He is jovial, informative enthusiastic, even after 11 years seems to love all that he does. This is a huge asset and turned a good night into a thoroughly delightful night.The club is open for lunch on weekdays and dinner Wednesday, Thursday and Fridays
Score: /1420

Monday, August 11, 2008

The Red Orange

Well placed opposite Prahran market at 194 Commercill Rd. South Yarra this is a simply furnished venue offering breakfast 'till 3.00pm, a $20 lunch and a full a la carte lunch and dinner menu. On weekends breakfast is an incredibly reasonable 1/2 price! It's a friendly place the young staff full of smiles. We started with a steak sandwich and lamb shanks. The steak turned out to be a chicken sandwich which was removed with apologies and eventually replaced with a sustantial very tender and tasty steak sandwich. My shanks, a very substantial serve, ($22) almost floating in a soup of their wine sauce came with a good size bowl of mashed potato. The menu mentioned corn, leeks and beetroot but not potato. There was no sign of the the leek or the beetroot but some corn and carrot. I inquired about the beetroot and the waitress said it's comming, although it obviously had not been. A few minutes later a it arrived with the casual remark "We found some beetroot". There is no effort to impress with presentation of the food which arrived with splashes of beetroot juice all over the dish.
I found the service amiably incompetent.
The breakfasts I saw for other diners were substantial and despite the coarse presentation everything was eaten with gusto. They have a modest and reasonably priced wine list and details are available on their web page. This is a very professional page but it bore little relationship to what the place is really like.
If you want a ploughmans lunch, or breakfast, you could do a lot worse
Score: 12-75/20

Sunday, August 03, 2008

Coco Thai Restaurant

I became suspicious of the mussels that we had intended to have for dinner and consigned them to the bin leaving a small problem. Where and what should we eat. On the spur of the moment we chose Coco Thai a pleasant one room restaurant fronting on to Glenhuntly Rd. at number 586. They have quite an extensive menu including entrees, soups, salads, curries, stir fries, sea food, special dishes noodles and more. The brown artificial fibre ?nylon table cloths are covered with a sheet of white paper and adorned by paper serviettes folded in an attractive wide open flower shape. We started with Roti with sate sauce ($2.80/serve) and Golden Bags four very crisp deep fried bags packed with chicken mince and sweet corn – a very mild dish ($6.50) and a Tom Kha – a coccnut milk soup with chicken, beef and baby sweet corn ($6.50). A mild soup with distinctly Thai flavours. For mains we had a Gang Keaw Wan another mild dish in a sweet coconut milk with prawns and chicken and beef ($15.90) with well balanced spices including the usual suspects – coriander and Kaffir Lime. This is also available in a stronger chilli version. Steamed Jasmine rice ($3.00) for two and another main – Pad See Ew ($15.90) which is stir fry flat rice noodles, also a bit sweet, again with prawns, two of them!, chicken and beef. Both dishes also included some sliced carrot and broccoli. These rather dull photo's don't do justice to the food. The dishes all come with either or chicken, beef and prawns and the noodles also come with a sate sauce and tofu. Curries can be very mild to hot as requested. I was impressed with the controlled flavours. Return customers can have a VIP card offering increasing discounts up to 25% after you have spent $400, They are open every night from 5.30 to 10 pm and offer takeaway as well as free delivery for about 5 Km for orders over $20. Licensed or BYO, wines are cheap. Two lovely young ladies provided friendly and helpful service.
On the “returnability scale” serving good food this inexpensive, clean restaurant scores well
Score 13.5/20

Saturday, August 02, 2008

Bamboo House

This is the third time I have reviewed this restaurant. I used to believe B.H. at 47 LittleBourke St. served the best North Chinese food in Melbourne and went back for another experience last week.
The venue hasn’t changed in decades and I was pleased to see Robert still holding the fort.
We started with an omelet roll – a crab filled omelet inside a crisp deep fried pastry shell an unusual and very pleasing entrée. This was followed by a plate of Mermaid Tresses. Fried thin strips of seaweed that looked interesting but tasted exactly how I think fried grass would taste. This is a dish to be avoided unless ordered by your doctor!
Prawn, for a change, in oyster sauce was a dull choice and does not distinguish B.H. from a thousand other restaurants. I wish I’d ordered the Peking duck I saw being carved for a neighboring table!! Beggars chicken is a special dish which I ordered 24 hours ahead. It is a whole chicken stuffed with mushrooms and herbs, wrapped in banana leaves, covered in clay and slow cooked. After the clay is smashed and the leaves peeled back the chicken is normally very tender, moist and tasty. For some reason, in this case, the bird was fairly dry and thus not up to the usual standard. An accompanying side dish of spinach was very stringy and not recommended. They have a modest wine list at extraordinarily low prices - many around $28 to $35
Comment: Very disappointing It's very important to order the right things at these restaurants
Score: 14-5/20

Friday, August 01, 2008

InterVue - Shannon Bennett

Shannon elucidates a point.

Sitting a couple of feet from a huge cauldron boiling chicken carcasses for stock (when will we three meet again?) at the Chef’s table at Vue de Monde Neil Murray, of 'At My Table', and I spent an hour or so chatting with Shannon Bennett. The conversation ranged from reviewers to restaurants, from oysters to truffles and a lot in between. It began with Neil's question about early chefs influencing him. Shannon included Marco Pierre White, a notoriously difficult and highly innovative 3 Michelin star English chef, (see http://www.tomatom.com/ on the subject of temperamental chefs) and John Burton-Race, also a Michelin starred celebrity chef frequently featuring on TV, and in the divorce courts. He is extremely complimentary about Gordon Ramsay who he sees as both an excellent chef and a great showman but less complimentary about Jamie Oliver who has lost his way and become ‘a product’. He also has good things to say about local chefs and thinks both Ray Capaldi and Greg Maloufs' new restaurants will do well. It was an extremely frank and open exchange, so much so that I cannot use the adjectives Shannon used in speaking of some of his critics. Quite some time ago now Stephen Downes wrote a seriously silly and unbalanced review of Vue which led to him being banned. I was surprised that potential patrons could take his comments that seriously but evidently some did. Other reviewers show no understanding of the real costs involved in, for example,having a top sommelier pour a glass of wine.
It’s not only the dead tree press that concerns Shannon it’s everything and everyone be they bloggers or patrons. Any comment or criticism is treated seriously. Speaking of restaurants it was revealing to hear Shannons’ view of El Bulli. Ferran Adria is an artist, it’s not transferable, it starts and ends in the kitchen at El Bulli. Nevertheless watch out for Ferran Adria coming to Melbourne and putting on something special with Shannon at Vue.
Which chef would Shannon like to cook with - Alex Atali at D.O.M. in San Paolo Brazil for one. Another he admires is Andoni Aduriz (who trained at El Bulli) from Mugaritz outside San Sebastian. This is also a restaurant that follows the molecular gastronomy approach, called technoemotional by the Spanish.
Getting personal: Shannon works out at a gym three times a week, he likes driving fast cars but strictly, and only, on the race track. He has sold his own car and the family car is an Audi but he walks to work at present. He spends his free time with the family and loves spending time with his two young children. For ethnic cuisine he likes Ethiopian and Moroccan, specially tajines. He spends one afternoon a week mentoring troubled kids at The Whitelion Society, through cooking, teaching them that they can do things really well, a perfect omelet for example, can provide remarkable self belief. The societies charter, in brief, is to open doors to opportunities, relationships and community for young people involved in the Youth Justice System or at risk of involvement.
You can visit their web site at http://www.whitelion.org.au/
About food: On the creative side, of his own creations, Shannon most likes his liquid mushroom gnocchi but acknowledges that most of his dishes are variations and developments from others initial efforts. Freshness of ingredients is absolutely crucial. For example West Australian black truffles are identical genetically to the Perigord truffle being from the same spore and there is no terroir so they have the advantage of being able to be used within a few days of being harvested before they start to deteriorate.
There is a particular oyster that Shannon favours - Moonlight Oysters from Batemans Bay. This is virtually an artisan oyster grown under very specific conditions to produce an excellent tasting full bodied oyster in a flat shell.
On Vue: Shannon not only strives to be really good he strives to be the best. This involves concentration on all aspects of the restaurant. Excellent performance everywhere is the key to Vues’ success. There is a major concentration on ‘front of house’ performance and training staff to the highest standards, both on the floor and in the kitchen, is another mark of a quality restaurant. The architecture, the lights and lighting, the cutlery, the crockery, the Riedel glasses, the re-upholstered chairs - it all counts. Top quality staff are essential to making a meal at Vue a great experience. Behind him there are a now a support staff of 90! Not all at Vue of course.
Shannon didn't say this but he might have Vue does not just sell food it sells feelings and I must say they are feelings I enjoy enormously.
To get another side of this interview visit www.tankeduptaco.blogspot.com/