The Millswyn (South Yarra) 03/2011

For decades Lynches served Melbourne's some what sedate and affluent diners on the corner of Millswyn St and Domain road but not any more. New owners and a refit has completely changed the character of the place. Indeed it has removed it's character. The place, now The Millswyn, is now barely furnished. Tables are bare as are the walls, painted in cool ochre tones. Floors are polished wood and every thing encourages noise.
Black dressed waiters scoot about doing their duty in an efficient impersonal manner. There is no meet and greet, no warmth and what style there is could be termed cafe de luxe.
The wine menu arrives in a colourful box. It is set out in an unusual way with lots of cocktails first ($20) followed by beers and then wines which, again are set out differently from the usual. By the glass they range from about $10 to $15.
Dench's sourdough bread came, fresh and warm, with a Chef's offering, a buttery slightly over seasoned white onion and puy lentil and chive veloute.
The menu is not large but it is interesting. My assiette of charcuterie was excellent.
A fine jambon, a few slices of local sausage, a fine prosciutto and a farmers terrine were all excellent with some pickles, cocktail onions and cornichons, to counteract the richness of the meats.
Sandra's gnocchi with goat's cheese in a pumpkin pureed sauce was normally a main but served as an entree.
This was also very rich and buttery and every part of this large serve was delicious except for the gnocchi. They had a spongy consistency and were too firm.
My main, lamb chops, served slightly pink, was beautifully presented and tasted as good as it lookedThe twice cooked, sous vide then roasted, pork loin was quite bland whilst the pork belly was perfectly cooked with crisp skin and succulent fat over tasty meat.

These were both good size served leaving us very satisfied. A side of beans with shaved almonds, olive oil and sprinkling of parmigiana ($8) was very fresh and crisp, an excellent accompaniment.
Before our dessert a pre dessert dessert was served.
Berries on a custard on a pear jelly, We could both have done with a lot more of it. A frozen chocolate fondant with butterscotch ice cream ended the meal. There was plenty of crunchy butterscotch in the ice cream.
The outer chocolate, half way between a chocolate cream and a mousse was as smooth textured and tasty as one could want but the fondant was not as well filled with chocolate sauce nor as rich as we would have liked.
A character filled place serving indifferent food has been replaced by a characterless place serving very good food!
Comment: It is becoming ever more evident how important front of house staff are to the success of restaurants.
Score 14/20