Le Petit Bourgeoise (Malvern) 03/2011

Reviewers who are seriously impressed with restaurants have nothing but joy in expressing their pleasure and are normally in general agreement with their colleagues. There is only one problem about raving about LPB. It's a very small restaurant and it's already often hard to get a table so this can only make the situation worse. Never the less we have to say that we find it one of the most under rated restaurants in Melbourne. The food is outstanding and this is acknowledged by every review I have seen for the last decade and We have invariably had superb meals there.

It's a husband and wife team with John Salsbury in the kitchen and Wendy looking after the front of house. The restaurant is small, one room, with a cool, understated elegance. Patrons generally come to enjoy a meal in comfort and without excessive noise. For all that sobriety it is a happy place to be.
Service is paced for a long dinner. This allows John to cook each dish perfectly and he does.
He has an understanding for cooking that is rarely seen. His sauces are delicate and balanced. Not everything is French but the onion soup certainly is. Slightly caramelized, the onion adds just a touch of sweetness. If you like French onion soup you will not get it better than this. ($18).
A Strzelecki goat’s cheese (blue) tart, grapefruit, red capsicum / tomato relish ($18) was exquisite. Excuse the pic, my flash failed.
Perfect pastry, gentle flavour and melting texture. Mouth wateringly good.
Mains are around $32 for dishes well balanced, well seasoned and truly excellently cooked. I'm not going to go on about them. Go and try them for yourself.
Desserts are a treat. De Flottoante aux Pralines ($15)
is rich and light and big enough to share When it comes to souffles Chef Salsbury is a master. They rise beautifully and do not collapse, and have excellent flavour. Although fairly sweet they are really really good.
It's BYO with a small modestly priced, adequate wine list.
Score 15.5/20