Monday, December 31, 2007

Some Dinners on Silver Wind


Pic's will have to wait 'till we get off this cruise Sorry.
December 23rd La Terrazza
The following night was “Lobster” night at La Terrazza and once again we enjoyed both outstanding food and service. After antipasti we had the chef’s suggestions
;
Italian pancakes stuffed with sauteed seafood and caviar an extremely delicate dish

This was followed by linguine pasta with lobster, egg yolk, tomato sauce and ground almonds. The sauce was mild and blended beautifully so that no taste dominated this most excellent dish.

The main course a small lobster tail split and grilled with fresh Italian greens was delicate sweet and tender

A black and white chocolate mousse with a sweet Italian Muscat as dessert wine completed this very excellent meal.
The western oriented breakfast buffet at this restaurant offers a wide range of cold delights, hot dishes, made to order omelets and desserts – extremely satisfying. The buffet style lunches have not been impressive.
Watery and undistinguished soups, incompletely cooked egg plant and indifferent Caesar salad surprise.

Dinner December 24, 2007
Described as Ligurian regional food it was difficult to determine just what that meant. Regardless it was a typical Italian meal.
I had a carpaccio of octopus which as very bland but made into a better dish with Arugula lettuce, lemon and extra virgin olive oil. Much more tasty was the gratinated wild mushroom tartlet
For Primi the gnocchi with pesto were the finest quality as were the pan fried home made ravioli with sage butter and sprinkled with parmesan
Secondi of brised veal shank (osso bucco) had been marinated for two days before being slow cooked at 90 degrees for 6 hours. Served with a superb gremolata it was a top dish
The blue fin tuna, served raw at our request, was disappointing, being somewhat fibrous.
After an introductory glass of prosecco and a taste of the rather bitter Tuscan Chardonnay Albizzia we went on to thoroughly enjoy a Tuscan (Frescobaldi) 2005 Chianti Castligione and a shot of Grappa to finish . In all a very nice meal of no particular distinction – say 14/20


Dinner December 27th at SALETTA
Described as The Best of Burgundy this 5 course degustation menu began with “A Bite-size Taste of Burgundy” five amuse bouche which included an interesting onion soup, a small stuffed cake, three little cheese sticks and a crisp pastry covered triangle of shredded duck as well as the lovely foie gras coronet mentioned on the 25th accompanied by the 1998 Cuvee Louis , Pommery. Wine Spectator rates a 1998 Pommery brut at 89 and I wonder if this is the same wine.
A rather dry Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles, Champy, 2003 followed with the breaded frogs legs with garlic parsley butter and Charlotte potato cream. These legs had been snap frozen and retained a moist and delicate flavour.
The whole roasted Bresse chicken with morel mushrooms had a taste and texture that is different from the Australian chickens. The meat is firm but moist and the taste suggests it has been running around the forest rather than a cage ever so slightly gamey.
The Batard-Montrachet Moillard Cote de Beaune 2004 was wasted on me.
The next wine the last I could really remember(!) was a lovely lighter style Latricieres-Chambertin, Cote de Nuits Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, 2004which went very well with the Burgundy Cheese Brioche with fresh grape coulis
The dessert of Dijon style mulled pear with home made spice bread ice cream completed the meal with a St. Amour Domaine Barbelet, 2004 and a rather befuddled diner could just about remember the pleasant fumes of a Vieux Marc de Bourgogne, Roulot with our coffee and regional delights – armangac soaked prunes and a dark nut chocolate.


Dinner at La Terrazza December 28, 2007

Described as ‘La Cucina Molisana’ an area of Italy more or less opposite Rome we began with the crispy fried King Scallop with herb salad and chunky tomato dressing. The scallops were excellent and delicate not enhanced by the salad herbs which were strongly independent. The deep fried lemon ravioli stuffed with prosciuto, ricotta and scarmoza cheese were surprisingly bland – the only prominent taste being the cheese.
For Primi the black truffle risotto had been enhanced with truffle oil giving it a wonderful aroma. The super fino Arborio rice was a smaller grain than I expected but tasted great
For Secondi the stuffed baby squid came with a sort of baby brussel sprout soufflé (which was much appreciated) and with no mention of the absent, advertised, tomato fondue
The lamb stew with red and yellow peppers was a good stew with an abundance of potato
Throughout the meal we enjoyed the fruity aroma of the medium bodied Negroamaro, Masseria Altemura Salento, IGT, Puglia, 2004. I found the tannins unobtrusive leaving a very pleasant finish
In all another consistently good meal
Perhaps13.75/20

Dinner Open seating restaurant December 29th 2007
Another Italian menu with a reasonable choice of Appetizers, ‘Intermezzo’ and Entrees.
The marinated seafood with extfa virgin olive oil (EVOO in future reviews), lemon juice and parsley was a sweet mouthful and the pan fried gnocchi with sage butter sprinkled with parmesan were as delicate and good tasting as possible.
The minestrone with pesto was satisfying and the home made herb and ricotta ravioli, which turned out to be one raviolo!, was very good with the accompanying walnut sauce
For entrée the herb crusted rack of lamb with tomato gattin, roast garlic and yoghurt dressing sweet tender meat cooked exactly as requested.
We drank Chianti Ruffina D.C.O.G., Nipozzano Riserva, Frescobaldi, Tuscany 2003 –a smooth full red with great bouquet, balanced tannins and gentle finish.
A Sandeman Ruby port was pleasant with the cheese selection
9 Gouda, Appenzeller, Gorgonzola, Real Capri and
Puerto Octay)
Finally a Lemon liqueur flavoured mousse with orane coulis and a Marsala wine sabayon with chocolate ice cream completed another better than a average meal
Score 14/20

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

The French Laundry - Yountville

A view of Yountville
Ready for dinner

Behind the menu our BYO wine corkage US$200!!
A restaurant with a huge reputation to maintain. The only 3 Michelin 3 star restaurant in the vicinity of San Francisco. The FL is in the small village of Yountville at 6640 Washington St, which is also the home of Thomas Kellers small restaurant Bouchon and his bakery Bouchon Bakery which I have recently reviewed. The FL is housed in a 17th century National Trust building which cannot be altered, or even renamed! It was once a laundry and at another time a brothel. The tiny upstairs toilet still has the no.7 from that time.
With some fear that the place would be very “stuffy’ moving past the very well dressed and obviously well heeled diners does nothing to dispel these concerns but it quickly changes to quite a fun place with our witty waiter Guillame who was quick with the appropriate repost as the level of levity rose at our table, beginning with the appearance of our 3 litre bottle of 1998 Benziger Merlot (corkage US$200).
Before the meal the menus are distributed and there are lengthy explanations of the dishes and where choices have to be made for the 9 courses – basically
$240 with supplements ( Foie gras $30 supplement)
The lavish use of quotation marks and the explicit detail of the ingredients in the menu which I have copied below, tell you very little about the food so I will comment about each dish we had.
Food:
Before the meal we were presented with a tiny gougers which were rather dry and had insufficient gruyere and a coronet of crispy pastry with a finely chopped salmon and cream cheese which was delicious





Rather phallic looking coronets but they tasted so very good!

"OYSTERS AND PEARLS"
"Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Greek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar

A tiny, delicate and mouthwateringly delicious dish

SALAD OF YOUNG GLOBE ARTICHOKES
Pickled Pearl Onions, Hearts of Romaine,Sweet Carrots and Moulin des Penitents Extra-Virgin Oil Emulsion

Quite tasty but not extraordinary
MOULARD DUCK "FOIE GRAS AU TOURCHON"
Tokio Turnips, Cranberry Compote, Navel Oranges and Watercress The foie gras was very smooth and super rich (and a $30 supplement)
SAUTEED FILLET OF BARRAMUNDI
Sugar Snap PeasKohlrabi Pea Tendrils, Marcona Almonds and Passion Fruit Gastrique


beautifully done barely but perfectly cooked different from the Australian barramundi, a more delicate and juicy, moist flesh
or

SANTA BARBARA COAST SEA URCHIN
Celeriac, Black Winter Truffleand Chestnut "Ragout"with Yukon Gold "Pommes Puree" This had a very very strong taste of the sea
SWEET BUTTER POACHED MAINE LOBSTER "MITTS"

Broccolini, Butternut Squash and Pomegranite Kernels and Madras Curryand Cilantro Shoots Another tiny serve. I think I prefer the tail of the lobster.
WOLF RANCH WHITE QUAIL
Glazed Sunchokes, Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach and Nicoise Olive Sauce This was as good a quail as I've ever eaten. Think of the qualities you would like and this dish had them all

Or
ALL DAY BRAISED “ROUELLEDE TETE DE COCHON”
Melted Collard Greens, Fried Quail Egg, Applewood-Smoked Bacon and Blis Maple Syrup Jus Another really good dish for those who enjoy pork cheek

At this point we indulged in the great rip off - with an extra dish WHITE TRUFFLES with Tagliatelle US$150 for about four mouth fulls of al dente tagliatelle with a reasonable amount of white truffle shaved on to it at the table – grossly expensive

The white truffle

A few shavings
The $150 mouthful!SNAKE RIVER FARMS “CALOTTE DE BOEF GRILLEE”
Golden Chanterelle Mushrooms, Salsify, Brussel Sprout Leaves, and “Sauce Colbert” Tasted even better than it looks!


A very little cheeseHOPE FARM “TOMME DE BREBIS”
Granny Smith Apple Relish, Pine Nut Shortbread and Field Arugula Vinaigrette
And then they looked after the sweet toothed
FLOWERING QUINCE SORBET
and “Cardamon Panacotta” and Ginger Snap “Tuile”

or
“S’MORES”
Cashew Nut “Parfait” Caramel Delice and “Sauce a la Guimauve Flambe”
Or
“VOL AU VENT”
with Fuyu Persimmon, Shiso Sorbet, and Black Truffle Syrup
Followed by “MINARDISES” and tea or coffee

Score: 17/20

Monday, December 24, 2007

Eating on M/v Silver Wind



In developing cruises that offer the best possible holidays the Silver Seas company have gone as far as they can to pamper their clients. The space, the facilities and most particularly the services from the myriad of well trained staff are beyond criticism. Just in case there is any cause for dissatisfaction there are also constant opportunities to express opinions
Food is a major pre occupation on M/v Silver Wind (SV) a 6 star cruise ship
The facilities range from the poolside grill serving up hot dogs, hamburgers, salad, chips and onion rings through to the open seating fully serviced main restaurant. Then there is the Italian style “La Terrazza” with a buffet style breakfast and lunch and
dinners that concentrates on Italian regional cooking with special dinners such as the truffle and porchini mushroom night and the lobster night and most distinguished of all the 2 Michelin star Saleeta restaurant which offers daily changes of degustation menus – including several French, Italian and American food styles with matched wines for an extra US$200/head or US$30 for their regular wines. Wines are available with all meals and if a wine is not to ones liking the sommelier is only to pleased to find a suitable substitute
Yesterday we lunched late at the poolside grill with a prawn Martini, salad, a hot dog and hamburger which, to my delight, was cooked exactly as requested.

In the evening we enjoyed a first class meal at the Terrace starting with a thin slice of Margarita pizza, and a glass of Prosseco, followed by anti pasti from a wide variety on a buffet table.

First course was pasta – I had an excellent Penne Al’Amatriciana with bacon, onion and fresh tomato sauce and also tasted the fine gnocchi with walnuts in a gorgonzola sauce.
These were served with an Italian white Vermantino Varranne Rocca de Montemosse which had a slightly bitter finish. For mains I had a local Chilean fish Merluzza Negra with salsa of aglio and timio with mushrooms and peppers,

a large very fine white flesh fish and also tasted the pan fried sole on a bed of eggplant. Each dish was very very good and the Puglia red served with it was beautifully smooth.
A selection of cheeses – gorgonzola, bella payees, provolone and emantala before the dessert trolley – I enjoyed a tiramisu with tiramisu ice cream and a small mille feue
with a honey cream grappa and coffee finished a very very good meal in a sophisticated venue.
We had several waiters Halil being most intrigued I took his photo!
The following night was “Lobster” night at La Terrazza and once again we enjoyed both outstanding food and service. After antipasti we had the chef’s suggestions; Chef Giorgio and Maitre de Gustavo both looked after us as though we were royalty! Italian pancakes stuffed with sauteed seafood and caviar an extremely delicate dish
This was followed by linguine pasta with lobster, egg yolk, tomato sauce and ground almonds. The sauce was mild and blended beautifully so that no taste dominated this most excellent dish.

The main course a small lobster tail split and grilled with fresh Italian greens was delicate sweet and tender

A black and white chocolate mousse with a sweet Italian Muscat as dessert wine completed this very excellent meal. The western oriented breakfast buffet at this restaurant offers a wide range of cold delights, hot dishes, made to order omelets and desserts – extremely satisfying. The buffet style lunches have not been impressive.
Watery and undistinguished soups, incompletely cooked egg plant and indifferent Caesar salad surprised.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Auberge du Soleil - Napa Valley

Introduction: There are many rave reviews about this rather isolated one Michelin star restaurant on Rutherford Hill Road. The Auberge also provides accommodation for the well heeled.
The entrance to the restaurant is through narrow double doors leading into a large architecturally auberge style room with a large central fireplace.
The well spaced tables with patterned linen cloths and serviettes are big enough to comfortably accommodate the food and drink.
Ambiance: Laid back sophistication
Service: Always available without being pushy or oppressive
Bradley Wasserman, the assistant food manager was particularly helpful
Food: We enjoyed an exquisite meal made with the finest ingredients and generally presented in pleasing combinations.

We had the four course $90 dinner which consisted of a choice of one of four first courses, second courses main courses and desserts
Before the meal chef Robert Curry sent us a amuse bouche - a delicate crab cake and a bite of Atlantic salmon
Between us we tried quite a few of their range including the roast chestnut soup, truffle cream, brioche, pate foie blond which produced a delicious blend of taste though the texture of the soup may have been improved if it had not been so totally homogenised.

The poached Maine lobster, half a tail, avocado, mango, vanilla, watercress was sweet and tender however the slightly peppery watercress provided a somewhat sharp contrast.
The second course Meyer lemon risotto, Nantucket Bay scallops, Bloomsdale spinach was cooked to perfection the delicate scallops quite excellent
The Atlantic cod, fennel puree piperade, black olive jus was a superbly produced the fish contrasting with the jus.
The seared tuna, hearts of palm, glazed pork belly, quail egg another most enjoyable dish with marked contrasts in taste.

The chef sent us a palate cleanser of pineapple ice cream and sago pearls before the next course

For mains we had the Liberty farm duck, persimmon stuffing, baby carrots, pomegranate sauce. The medium rare breast was wonderfully tender and retained succulent juices and went well with the stuffing.
I dipped my finger into the jus before this picture!
We had a side dish of excellently prepared spinach.A complimentary cheese selection from the left: Accapella: goat milk from Sonoma, Bergase Heublumen cows milk from Switzerland, and three French cheeses a Pyrennes Brebis sheeps milk, and two more cows milk a Fourme D'Ambert and a Sourmaintain which was running off the plate.
Finally the desserts and coffee

Warm vanilla scented chiboust, Mandarin oranges, traditional shortbread


Brown sugar roasted black Arkansas apples, cream cheese, red flame raisins caraway ice cream

and petit fours

Wine: We had a slightly acidic 2006 Stags Leap Voignier $46
Price Perhaps expensive by American standards about US$130/head including service charges
Comments A fine meal with great attention to detail they even provided me a loan of magnifiers as I had trouble reading the menu in the muted light! Not your usual takeaway restaurant but it seems they are used to people not finishing their meals!!

Score: 17-5/20

Bouchon Bakery - Yountville

At 6528 Washington St, only a stones throw from the French Laundry, this tiny bakery serves a continuous flow of customers from 7.00 am to 7.00 pm
It has a range of breads, sandwiches and mouth watering patisseries like this almond croissant
or plain croissant
or this fabulous mango meringue
and drinks which can be taken away or enjoyed in their small courtyard front garden.
A great place to stop for a snack