Saturday, September 22, 2007


Introduction: Named after the Maris Piper potato for no apparent reason at, 15 Glenferrie Rd, Malvern close to Dandenong Road Maris has benefited mightily from very good reviews both in the AGF and Gourmet Traveller.
Ambience: The front room of an old house. Ten marble topped tables seat maximum of 40. Moderately noisy but amiable atmosphere

Service: Attentive relaxed

Food: I started with the quail dumplings in broth with supposedly truffle flavoured almond foam.

Only luke warm the dumplings were quite nice but the foam, with crisp slivers of almond, was totally gone and the truffle taste awol.
Carrot soup with a couple of succulent scallops was thick and tasty with extra texture and taste added by the addition of some bits of prune and wallnuts.The Pedro Jimenez sherry was lost in the mix. Spaghetti with broccoli (which was actually silver beat) and anchovy - usually distinctive but absent today, had been fried in olive oil till it had a crisp crunchy base and then turned out on to the plate. Nicely spiced. I loved it.

The main course of roast suckling pig with crispy crackling and apple was beautifully presented, tender and tasty however the balsamic flavour was also absent and the celeriac salad extremely bland.

Wine: I had a pleasant glass of Proseco ($9) There house sherry is also very acceptable
Price: You can have a two course lunch for $20 or three course early dinner with a glass of wine and coffee for $30 from a slightly limited menu otherwise about $35 to $45 for two courses.
Comments: Excellent value for a one hat restaurant but a bit ordinary for what I got there. Overall I was disappoined.
Score: Open to review 13.5/20

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