Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Le Petit Bourgeois (E. Malvern) 10/2010

Despite our reservations about the Age Good Food Guide we often find it's brief summaries and comments on dishes reasonably in agreement with our own feelings. Occasionally we think they get it quite wrong, especially in their score. In the case of LPG I'm grateful that after a short fling at 14/20 many years ago they seem to have settled on 13.5 for several years. This is not really enough to get a rash of new patrons rushing to their doors so, though often booked out, one can usually get one of their eight pleasantly spaced generously sized tables given enough notice. The very thing the AGF downgrades them for is the part of the reason we particularly like to go there. It's because of the sedate, quiet, extremely pleasant atmosphere. It's because of the general absence of 'buzz', the good size tables, good cutlery, crockery and linen without being over the top. It's a place to enjoy conversation and food. The food is also a highlight. The cooking is careful and excellent. It's quality French cuisine. Nothing over the top just really good cooking. Everyone agrees about the food. For us that adds up to a really good restaurant. The menu is not large and nor is the wine list but they're adequate. Our friends enjoyed an entree platter ($19 or $28 to share)
whilst I loved their delicately prepared quail. A lamb main was as good as it looked.
As requested it was cooked just beyond rare retaining all its succulent taste. Chef John Salisbury is a master of souffles, there are always several on the menu.
This was the pear souffle. They are invariably as light as air. He also has a great touch for other egg based desserts. I did have some more photographs but they seem to have got lost on my very full memory card. Looks like we'll just have to go back again for another meal!
Score: Last year we gave it 15 and it was worth every bit of it. Well worth a hat. 15.25 /20


Tim Cohen said...

It seems they are just not Rock n' Roll enough. I was there probably two months ago and loved it. Yet a place such as Supermaxi in Fitzroy North has just opened and gets 15/20 (revised down to 14.5/20 for TGFG). What is wrong with really, really good food getting judged just on that.

Ellliot & Sandra said...

Here here Tim
Totally agree

Anonymous said...


I couldn't agree with you more. You have summed it up perfectly. I reckon it is in the 15/20 zone but I suppose you need all that noise, buzz and bling to justify that!!!

I hear on the grapevine that Matt Preston was the one who originally rated it higher (he loves the place) but some other trendy reviewer didn’t agree with him… Hmmm, my money is with Matt. In my experience there are very few places you can go where you can be consistently impressed by the food - LPB is one of them.

What does the Age Good Food Guide matter anyway - the place is booked out every Thurs Fri and Sat. That says it all!

John and Wendy, we salute you.


Elliot and Sandra said...

Hi Dave
Much as we deride it the AGF is not a bad place to start but it's no the Bible.