Showing posts with label $$$$. Show all posts
Showing posts with label $$$$. Show all posts

Thursday, January 10, 2019

Provenance (Beechworth) 01/2019

The entrance to this highly regarded regional restaurant, which has featured in the AGFG for almost a decade, and is currently rated 30th by Gourmet Magazine in Australia's top 100 restaurant, is through an impressive very large wooden door down the side of this former bank building.
Spread over a number of rooms it retains something of the grandeur of the original building with  a combination of wide square doorways,

20 ft ceilings, with rosettes 
and large arched windows.
 Table are bare with simple settings.
The chef offers á la carte or a tasting menu. $125 for six courses with some extras available. Matched wines add $75 or $125 for premium wines. They have an extensive wine list with a good range of sake which fits their Japanese influenced menu.
I was pleased to see a glossary of sake terms included in the wine menu.
The wine menu is extensive with some concentration on the region but I elected to have sake which was beautifully presented.
 A very much to my taste house made sourdough bread was served early with a cold smoked creamed butter. If you like that sort of thing this was out of this world. My mouth waters thinking of it.
 I skipped the optional starter of home made silken tofu dish with cucumber, ginger and kiriboshi but added a garfish with its grilled bones.
 Just a mouth full, full of taste and crunch.
First course was slow cooked carrots, lavender infused buttermilk, pumpkin seed crumble, pumpkin seed oil.
 The carrots were firm, the pumpkin seeds crunchy but it was hard to distinguish the lavender flavour.
Sashimi, ponzu, wasabi leaf pickle, cold pressed sunflower oil followed.
 The kingfish was as it always is with an interesting contrast with the citrus tasting sauce and the sweetish pickles.
Smoked wallaby tartar, Japanese fish sauce and egg yolk dressing, cured mullet roe
was a benign sort of dish, pleasant and inoffensive as long as you find raw meat to your taste. It was well balances so nothing dominated.
 Free range duck, beetroot, pickled cherry (which had then been dehydrated), umeboshi
was another very appealing dish however a small fly managed to get into the sauce. I moved it to the side of the plate and called the waiter. He quickly removed it and offered to replate the dish. I said it was Ok so he didn't do anything more. I believe that, in any quality establishment that would have been unacceptable and the dish would have been removed without allowing the customer to continue with it.
Tri Tip, silverbeet, Café de Tokyo butter, presumably the chef's joke, a variation on Café de Paris butter
 
was exceptionally tasty although it had quite a lot of gristle in the meat.
I skipped the optional cheese dish and went on to dessert.
Leaves from the garden, raspberries on a cream base behind sheets of meringue.
 A pleasant dessert.
This was another of those unique meals. I suppose in a way every meal is unique but some are more so. As such the are hard to compare to other unique meals. The dishes were very interesting. They were not over the top with a myriad of ingredients. The hero of each dish was made more interesting by its accompaniments, never dominated by them. I very much doubt, as good as it was, that it belongs in the top 100 restaurants in Australia but it certainly is a very good restaurant.
Score: 17.25 /20

Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Woodland House (Prahran) 12/2018


Since Jaques Reymond sold his eponomous restaurant, renamed Woodland House a few years ago we've reviewed it three times see https://1001dinners.blogspot.com/search?q=woodland+house  with moderate to high praise. 
Neither the venue nor the format of the meal has changed but the food does. Last week we enjoyed the eight course degustation menu. You could have five courses, if you wished.and fortunately they did not insist that everyone should have the same menu.
The meal began with a variety of small bites
Local scallops, fermented chanterelle
Mussel and foie gras
Jerusalem artichoke fetta, Kombu tart, salted egg yolk
and spiced duck tongue with bamboo salt. 
Here, perhaps the thought of the eating a duck's tongue might have disturbed some patrons. If it did they were missing a treat. Each of these tidbits was a delight  and that was only the first course. 
Next we were served wild garlic, poached calamari, seaweed butter,

a wonderful combinations of flavours and textures. Grilled scampi, white asparagus, saltbush where the only bad thing was this photo!
Brioche buns 

accompanied the Murray cod, green almond, smoked oyster 
which was prettily presented. 
King Island wallaby, miso broad bean, pepperberry
 was colourful but rather bland.
Glazed Peckin duck, beetroot, horseradish

turned out to be my dish of the day. The flavours suited my palate. The sweetness of the beetroot blended perfectly. Duck l'orange couldn't be as good as this for me.
The Sher Wagyu fillet (How does one spell that word?), ginger mustard leaf XO 
a distinct Waghu flavour and was super tender but I prefer other cuts with a much higher fat content. Next came the desserts. A roasted white chocolate sandwich in a basket of flowers that they reminded me of my childhood.
Blueberry granita, elderflower, buffalo milk
was the last dish before we were presented with too many petit four.


We drank a Bindi Heathcote 2016 shiraz which was quite pleasant
I have enjoyed some very good meals lately and this was one of the very best. 
Score 17.5/20

Tuesday, December 04, 2018

Table 8 (Mulia Resort Nua Da Bali) 11/2018



Mulia  is a very fancy resort hotel in Bali distinguished by swathes of marble, huge foyers, 
and grand staircases.
modern decor, 
quality shops and high prices.
They have a few restaurants, on particularly noted for the prodigious variety of Chinese dishes available.
It's a simple place with a large u shaped counter stacked with every kind of meat, seafood and desserts you could want for.
Tables are almost bare
set with show plates, cutlery and chop sticks
Decor is simple
It's a smorgasbord arrangement with dozens of dishes.




and chefs cooking some of the fresh seafood.
Of coutse there are desserts too



 For all it's sophistication there is a blackboard at the entrance describing their dim sum.

 Ultimately the food is plentiful, fresh and potentially fantastic but it simply isn't fantastic. Good sure but it doesn't quite cut it for me as an excellent restaurant. The chef's got mixed up too.
Lastly it's expensive
Score: 14/20